Overview

MATTERHORN PEAK IS THE HIGHEST SUMMIT in the Sawtooth Range and the closest of the High Sierra to Sacramento- an adventure with snow and rock climbing, routefinding, a small glacier and views into Northern Yosemite. Join us for an overnight to this spectacular and scenic mountain. Because of the technical and physical demands of this trip, it is considered an intermediate level climb. Beginners are welcome but should be prepared for a demanding event. To RSVP requires a $10 non-refundable deposit, payable online to cover permits and parking fees and a meal if desired. A suggested cash donation of $80 is appreciated at the event. Join us for a memorable climb!

THE DETAILS
Friday, May 21: After gear checks and waivers at the meet up, we will carpool up Hwy 50 to 395 and south to Bridgeport, then to Twin Lakes Road where we will park at the Mono Village Resort. We will split up group gear, then climb up the Horse Creek drainage high up into a basin below the knife-like northeast ridge where we can camp on the Matterhorn glacier moraine. This is a 3.5 mile semi off-trail route with 3600' elev. gain. That afternoon we will dig camp, have a refresher snow school / climbing prep, and enjoy a warm meal. Instruction may include climbing technique, self arrest, anchors and belaying. SMG will provide mountaineering tents, and an Alpine Aire meal if requested.

Saturday May 22: Using an alpine start we will ascend the West Couloir and SW slope to the summit, weather and conditions permitting, to put our skills to the test. We also have the option of ascending the Class 3 Northwest Face on rock and snow. This will be a roped ascent in teams of three or four using a running belay, climbing with crampons and ice axe on up to 55 degree snow and will involve some rock scrambling, depending upon the exact route we choose. We will top out overlooking the range and deep into the northern portions of Yosemite National Park. To see another side of the mountain we will descend the SE slopes and the East Couloir to complete a full tour of the mountain and return to camp. After a short break, we will break camp and head back to the trailhead. We should be back to our meetup location very late Saturday night.

Weather and conditions may vary so the full arsenal of weather resistant clothing, equipment, and gear and an ice axe and crampons are mandatory. Those who have attended previous climbs of this type will be the best prepared, but this is still a route an ambitious mountaineer can accomplish. Previous experience climbing steep snow, rock scrambling, and climbing on a rope team is preferred. There are no facilities on the route. If you have any questions or concerns, please contact Darren.

SPECIFIC SKILLS WE WILL PRACTICE
- Snow and easy rock climbing with crampons and an ice axe
- Climbing, setting anchors, and belaying technique as a rope team
- Off trail navigation and mountain routefinding with an altimeter, map and compass

THE GEAR LIST
If you have questions or need help acquiring the right stuff, contact Darren. Try to keep your pack weight below 30% of your body weight - between 30 and 40 lbs is a good goal. Many items are available as loaners from the SMG. For your reference, more comprehensive descriptions of ALL recommended mountaineering clothing and equipment are in a handy list under the SMG "Files" tab.

Clothing and Footwear:
- Synthetic or wool wicking top and bottom base layer
- Warm / insulating or windproof mid-layer jacket and pants
- Water and wind resistant outer layer jacket and pants
- Insulating parka
- Warm wicking socks (liners if desired)
- Warm waterproof gloves and lighter weight gloves
- Warm winter hat (tuque)
- Balaclava / neck gaiter
- Mountaineering or sturdy water-resistant hiking boots
- Gaiters

Gear and Equipment:
- Trekking pole(s) with snow baskets
- 30 - 55 liter backpack
- Sleeping bag
- Sleeping pad
- Lightweight harness
- Climbing helmet
- Ice axe
- Crampons fit to your boots
- 2 large locking carabiners
- 2 double length slings
- Belay / rappell device
- Sunglasses or goggles
- Map of Matterhorn Peak
- Compass
- Camera

Essentials:
- Stove and pot w/lid - one for each tent group, to be determined at the event
- 2 liters of water or energy drink
- High calorie lunch and snacks for 2 days, and one easy dinner and breakfast. SMG will provide a dehydrated meal from Alpine Aire if requested.
- Mug / bowl, spoon
- Emergency items: headlamp, firestarter, knife, etc. (the "10 essentials")
- Personal items
- ID
- Money

PROVIDED:
- Tents
- Transportation from the meetup point to the trailhead and back
- Group technical gear - ropes, snow and rock protection, webbing and slings
- Any requested item from the gear list (notify Darren prior to the meetup)
- White gas fuel
- First Aid Kit
- Map of Matterhorn Peak

DONATIONS FOR OVERNIGHT EVENTS
SMG is supported solely by donations. In the case of overnight events there are prior costs such as fees, permits, food and gas. These costs are directly related to how many people attend. If you are serious about attending, please RSVP with a $10 non-refundable online deposit. The rest of the suggested donation - $80, or whatever amount you wish - can still be paid in cash at the event as usual. Any questions or comments, contact me. Thanks!

MORE INFORMATION:
View SMG Schedule
See how this peak fits into our lineup: SMG "Hit List"
Contact Darren: darrenshutt@att.net

Climb on!